Every Day It’s A-getting Closer
Going faster than a roller coaster…oh sorry, I was just singing to myself here for a minute.
Ok, the jeans I showed you yesterday? They’re done. They’re not what I wanted but I think I know how to fix that…so here’s the pic:
Observant people will notice that they are somewhat large. Guys, I measure as a size 14. I normally sew a size 12, but that can change with pants so I sewed an actual 14. I compared the pattern measurements not only to my body but to measurements I had taken of my RTW jeans. Nonetheless, I had to take in the side seams ONE AND AN EIGHTH of an inch on each side. And they’re still far too large. I also added a wedge to both the back and front pieces, 1 inch at the center back seam tapering to 3/8″ at the sides then another wedge in the front pattern piece, tapering from 3/8″ at the sides to nothing at the front seam. Hopefully a picture will make it clearer:
This fixed my swayback, put the front and back of the waistband at the same level, and made the entire rise far too long. On the plus side, it doesn’t pull at the back center seam (yippee)! So I think I need to do the same adjustment, but on a much smaller level. In fact, I think I need to make these jeans in a size 10. The sizing on this is RIDICULOUS. On the very good side? I made NO adjustments to the pattern other than the rise adjustment, and they’re the right general shape. I plan to buy another copy of Butterick 5682, as I think this is going to end up being my TNT pattern, if I can just get the sizing right. I might even be able to sew a 10 straight out of the package.
A few other observations: the fly piece and fly shield are really short on this. I actually thought they were weirdly short — I had to attach the waistband at 3/8″ to accommodate the usual 4″ metal fly zip I prefer on my pants. I also have to wiggle a bit to get the waistband over my butt, even though everything else about these pants is large and in charge. I have a note on the pattern to extend both pieces by 3/8″ next time around. Also, I didn’t bother reading the instructions so I have no idea if they suggested stay-stitching, but my yoke ended up a teensy bit ripply because I didn’t stay-stitch the top back piece or the top yoke. Definitely stay-stitch everything on this pattern, especially if you are using a stretch denim.
The last time I made it all the way through a pair of jeans, it took me two weeks (no kidding). This time around, it took me three days. Not bad, not bad….I might get the hang of this denim sewing thing after all.